Reviews
A Return to Roots: Forsythia Reviewed
A French omelet is one of the world’s most perfect foods: comforting, simple, yet requiring a rigorous technique to do properly. Everyone who eats seriously […]
Meanwhile, Back On Earth: Vernick Fish Reviewed
This review originally appeared in print alongside our Jean-Georges Philadelphia review. Read the Jean-Georges review here. There’s no elevator ride at Vernick Fish. No waterfalls. […]
Top of the World: Jean-Georges Philadelphia Reviewed
This review originally appeared in print alongside our Vernick Fish review. Read the Vernick Fish review here. The elevator ride up to Jean-Georges takes less […]
The Last Thing South Philly Needs Is Another Pizzeria. Good Thing Stina Isn’t One.
The last thing South Philly needs is another pizzeria. I can name 10,000 already without even thinking. So many that the names all bleed together. […]
Stella Is a Fresh Start for Jose Garces. I Only Wish It Was Better.
It took years for Jose Garces and his people to open this newest restaurant. It took so long that now it’s finally open, the people […]
Elwood in Fishtown Is a Love Letter to Pennsylvania Cuisine
It’s hard not to make fun of the Antler. If you haven’t seen it (and how have you not?), the antler in question is how […]
Chasing Perfect: Hiroki Reviewed
This review should be two sentences long. Six words, total: Hiroki is perfect. Go there now. Nothing more. No justification. No explanation. Just go in […]
Through the Locked Door: Alpen Rose Reviewed
The door at Alpen Rose is locked. There’s a bell. You ring it, and one of the panels opens, a friendly face on the other […]
Home Away From Home: Kalaya Reviewed
On a weekday night, the dining room at Kalaya is cool and calm. Servers move smoothly between the tables. They stop and chat. Owners Chutatip […]
That Jawn: Angelo’s Pizzeria Reviewed
It doesn’t matter that it was a beautiful day when I went walking to check out Angelo’s for the first time — a gorgeous sun-shining, […]
One More Time, With Feeling: Pizzeria Beddia Reviewed
Let’s get something out of the way right here at the start. This place isn’t the old Pizzeria Beddia. It can’t be — could never […]
Pretty Isn’t Enough: Aether Reviewed
I honestly don’t know what to tell you about Aether. I’ve been thinking about it for days — conflicted over what I experienced and what […]
No More Tears: Cry Baby Pasta Reviewed
Cry Baby Pasta entered the game with multiple strikes against it. It’s another Italian restaurant in a city already too full of Italian restaurants. It […]
True Names: Neighborhood Ramen Reviewed
I don’t even know what to call the thing I’m eating. This bowl—this perfect bowl—of noodles, kinked just a little, and rich, fatty pork bone […]
Just Say Yes: Amma’s South Indian Cuisine Reviewed
When the server asks if you want it spicy, just say yes. Say yes, and keep saying yes. And don’t worry, because it won’t be […]