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Reviews

Foobooz

Tunnel of Love and Dumplings: Tom’s Dim Sum Reviewed

There are a lot of restaurants in this town that I go to because it’s my job. There are some I find myself in because […]

Foobooz

Future Imperfect: SuGa Reviewed

I love the smell of SuGa. The dim warmth of it. The banquette tables that run along the wall opposite the bar, in the front […]

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Seeds and Stems: Hungry Pigeon Reviewed

The first time I went to Scott Schroeder’s new restaurant, Hungry Pigeon, I showed up for breakfast and liked it so much, I stayed for […]

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High-Gloss Rustic: A Mano Reviewed

In the back, chef Michael Millon is dancing. Not dancing-dancing (because that would be weird), but that’s what it looks like. He and his crew, […]

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An American In Paris: La Peg Revisited

When the server told me the special for the night was a plate of snails packed with herb butter, I didn’t get them, because snails […]

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The Stupid Joy of Simple Things: Clarkville Reviewed

The thing that matters most about Clarkville is where it lives. It’s a pizza restaurant with good beer, a single solid pasta, and a short, […]

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Smooth Jazz and Skate Wing: 26 North Reviewed

The 1990s were a bad time for the American restaurant scene. We were, as an emerging culinary entity, in our first youth—like awful (if precocious) […]

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Blood and Gingham: Urban Farmer Reviewed

By my own estimate, I consumed 13 billion calories at Urban Farmer the last time I was there. Maybe 13 and a half. I’m not […]

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Eating the Hand Grenade: El Rincon Criollo Reviewed

In a sane, just and rational world, all I would have to say is that El Rincon Criollo has fried mashed potato balls on its […]

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A Small World After All: Tredici Enoteca Reviewed

From the outside, the light spilling from Tredici’s windows was cool and white, and the glass appeared to be sweating. We could see the crowd—at […]

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The Leftovers: Buckminster’s

Even after finishing yesterday’s review of Buckminster’s, I still had some things to say that didn’t make it into the final copy. So here, in […]

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The Heart and the Head: Buckminster’s Reviewed

It was the bologna that threw me. I mean, really, it was everything. But it was the bologna most of all, because I loved the […]

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Let Me Go Wild: Revolution Taco Reviewed

The first time I walked into Revolution Taco, they were playing “Blister in the Sun,” and all the people in the neighborhood were still getting […]

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Red Meat Economics: LP Steak Reviewed

The steakhouse is the dullest kind of restaurant. There’s no surprise in a steakhouse. No shock, no awe. The best things you can hope to […]

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Positively 10th Street: Ting Wong Reviewed

I go to Ting Wong for lunch—hiding out at a sticky table along the wall, hot tea and perfect shrimp congee in front of me. […]