Reviews
For the Love of the Game: Andiario Reviewed
I’m so excited the day after I eat at Andiario, I tell everyone I know about it. I make phone calls. I write emails. I […]
Art and Commerce: Talk Reviewed
I went to Talk for the first time when it was very young — just a couple weeks old. I sat at the bar, drank […]
Soul Food: L’Anima Reviewed
At the hostess stand, they’re waiting for me when I walk in. Not because I have reservations. Not because anyone recognizes me coming. Just because […]
Imperfect Intimacy: The Bercy Reviewed
The Bercy is beautiful. That’s the first thing you’re going to think when you walk in, I promise. It is gorgeous. Lit like a 1940s […]
One Simple Thing: Bishos Cafe and Bakery Reviewed
In the morning, people come to Bishos for ijeh — an omelet with parsley and onions — and orange juice from the big, grinding, clanking […]
Back to Basics: The Ripplewood Reviewed
The narrow bar downstairs is already filling up with locals on a Friday night when I stroll in — late for my reservation after fighting […]
The Expectation Trap: Suraya Reviewed
One of the joys of this gig is being proven wrong, or at least too quick to judge. And at Suraya, I wasn’t expecting much. […]
Philly’s New Australian HIIT Workout Is So Insanely Hard
Look, if I’m going to spend 45 minutes of working out, I want it to be hard. I ain’t got time for some half-hearted, I-barely-broke-a-sweat workout — […]
An Effortless Cool: Cadence Reviewed
The bison tartare was lovely, of course: bloody red in a white bowl, offset by slices of salsify, the yellow dust of egg yolks, beet […]
Playing Favorites: Vista Peru Reviewed
Vista Peru is a potato lover’s paradise. All Peruvian restaurants are, really. They’re places where the potato is taken in strange new directions — used […]
The Zen of Fried Chicken: Redcrest Reviewed
I don’t know what it is about fried chicken that makes it so special, but I know that it is. Maybe it’s because it carries […]
Brave New World: Pizza Gutt Reviewed
I’ve spent a lot of time writing about restaurants, and I’ve never seen a restaurant quite like Pizza Gutt — mostly because it isn’t a […]
Tomorrow’s Breakfast Today: Middle Child Reviewed
Next to me at the counter, two women are talking about dead bodies. It’s only one of the conversations. One of the small groups — […]
Where There’s Smoke: Mike’s BBQ Reviewed
Mike’s walls are the color of raw meat. The color of the smoke line in a perfectly done rib — that fading meridian between just-plain-cooked […]
Twenty Years Later: Vetri Cucina Reviewed
If you’ve done a fair amount of drugs in your life — if sometimes you drink a little too much or engage in any of […]