Reviews
Via Locusta Is a Great Pasta Restaurant in an Already Great Pasta Town
Sitting at the bar at Via Locusta on a Wednesday night, I feel like I could be eating dinner anywhere. There was no hidden door […]
Cicala at the Divine Lorraine Isn’t This Good by Accident
My server really wanted me to try the fish pasta. It was his favorite, he said. Delicious. Amazing. He had a favorite cocktail, too. A […]
South by South: River Twice Reviewed
It would be easy to overlook River Twice. Not due to the location. It has prime placement in the old Izumi space on East Passyunk, […]
Night and Day: K’Far Cafe Reviewed
K’Far has New Restaurant Gravity right now. It’s got pull like a bright and massive star in the middle of Rittenhouse. And of course it […]
A Return to Roots: Forsythia Reviewed
A French omelet is one of the world’s most perfect foods: comforting, simple, yet requiring a rigorous technique to do properly. Everyone who eats seriously […]
Meanwhile, Back On Earth: Vernick Fish Reviewed
This review originally appeared in print alongside our Jean-Georges Philadelphia review. Read the Jean-Georges review here. There’s no elevator ride at Vernick Fish. No waterfalls. […]
Top of the World: Jean-Georges Philadelphia Reviewed
This review originally appeared in print alongside our Vernick Fish review. Read the Vernick Fish review here. The elevator ride up to Jean-Georges takes less […]
The Last Thing South Philly Needs Is Another Pizzeria. Good Thing Stina Isn’t One.
The last thing South Philly needs is another pizzeria. I can name 10,000 already without even thinking. So many that the names all bleed together. […]
Stella Is a Fresh Start for Jose Garces. I Only Wish It Was Better.
It took years for Jose Garces and his people to open this newest restaurant. It took so long that now it’s finally open, the people […]
Elwood in Fishtown Is a Love Letter to Pennsylvania Cuisine
It’s hard not to make fun of the Antler. If you haven’t seen it (and how have you not?), the antler in question is how […]
Chasing Perfect: Hiroki Reviewed
This review should be two sentences long. Six words, total: Hiroki is perfect. Go there now. Nothing more. No justification. No explanation. Just go in […]
Through the Locked Door: Alpen Rose Reviewed
The door at Alpen Rose is locked. There’s a bell. You ring it, and one of the panels opens, a friendly face on the other […]
Home Away From Home: Kalaya Reviewed
On a weekday night, the dining room at Kalaya is cool and calm. Servers move smoothly between the tables. They stop and chat. Owners Chutatip […]
That Jawn: Angelo’s Pizzeria Reviewed
It doesn’t matter that it was a beautiful day when I went walking to check out Angelo’s for the first time — a gorgeous sun-shining, […]
One More Time, With Feeling: Pizzeria Beddia Reviewed
Let’s get something out of the way right here at the start. This place isn’t the old Pizzeria Beddia. It can’t be — could never […]