Reviews
Stella Is a Fresh Start for Jose Garces. I Only Wish It Was Better.
It took years for Jose Garces and his people to open this newest restaurant. It took so long that now it’s finally open, the people […]
Elwood in Fishtown Is a Love Letter to Pennsylvania Cuisine
It’s hard not to make fun of the Antler. If you haven’t seen it (and how have you not?), the antler in question is how […]
Chasing Perfect: Hiroki Reviewed
This review should be two sentences long. Six words, total: Hiroki is perfect. Go there now. Nothing more. No justification. No explanation. Just go in […]
Through the Locked Door: Alpen Rose Reviewed
The door at Alpen Rose is locked. There’s a bell. You ring it, and one of the panels opens, a friendly face on the other […]
Home Away From Home: Kalaya Reviewed
On a weekday night, the dining room at Kalaya is cool and calm. Servers move smoothly between the tables. They stop and chat. Owners Chutatip […]
That Jawn: Angelo’s Pizzeria Reviewed
It doesn’t matter that it was a beautiful day when I went walking to check out Angelo’s for the first time — a gorgeous sun-shining, […]
One More Time, With Feeling: Pizzeria Beddia Reviewed
Let’s get something out of the way right here at the start. This place isn’t the old Pizzeria Beddia. It can’t be — could never […]
Pretty Isn’t Enough: Aether Reviewed
I honestly don’t know what to tell you about Aether. I’ve been thinking about it for days — conflicted over what I experienced and what […]
No More Tears: Cry Baby Pasta Reviewed
Cry Baby Pasta entered the game with multiple strikes against it. It’s another Italian restaurant in a city already too full of Italian restaurants. It […]
True Names: Neighborhood Ramen Reviewed
I don’t even know what to call the thing I’m eating. This bowl—this perfect bowl—of noodles, kinked just a little, and rich, fatty pork bone […]
Just Say Yes: Amma’s South Indian Cuisine Reviewed
When the server asks if you want it spicy, just say yes. Say yes, and keep saying yes. And don’t worry, because it won’t be […]
Sweet, Sour, Bitter and Bright: Chatayee Thai Reviewed
“Everyone’s trying to be modern today, and that’s great, but I’m going in the other direction — 100 years back.” That was chef Chatayee Venus […]
The Good-Time Machine: Giuseppe & Sons Reviewed
There’s a moment at Giuseppe & Sons, the new art installation from the Schulson Collective, that’s pure magic. If you’ve been there—which is likely, judging […]
Seeing Red: Nunu Reviewed
Red, mostly. That’s what you notice first about Nunu, the new izakaya from Ben Puchowitz and Shawn Darragh. Red lights. Red neon. A fat rainstorm […]
Comforts of Home: Sarvida Reviewed
You have to be in the mood for scrambled eggs and eggplant. And I’m not talking an adventurous mood, because the tortang talong at Lou […]