2 Bells To Cochon
Craig LaBan reviews Cochon, the French bistro named for a pig on the border of Queen Village and Bella Vista in South Philadelphia.
Cochon’s best entree, though, may in fact have been the duck breast. Its skin was seared to a cracker-crisp edge around rosy moons of tender meat, which came fanned over mahogany gravy next to a ragout of white beans. Of course, those beans are larded with nubs of pork and bacon, which not only amped the flavor, but drove home a recurring theme: Even when the poultry plates fly high, pig rules the heart of dinner at Cochon.
Two Bells – Very Good