Looking for somewhere new to eat? We’ve got you covered with “All Eyes On”
I did not like SuGa when I reviewed it almost a year ago. I gave the place a single star and described it as, in part, “dated Asian fusion cuisine that harks back to the glory days of Susanna Foo mixed with an incomplete vision of an International/Italian/Asian fusion cuisine mars the return of one of Philly’s most celebrated chefs.”
It was rough. And I debated that single star for a long time. But what ultimately made up my mind was that while Foo is a pro and the restaurant itself was highly polished and completely on its game, the food coming out of the kitchen felt (and tasted) like an as-yet unfinished experiment in modern fusion or a culinary journey for which there was no real map. In the moment, I walked away disappointed, confused and a little bit depressed.
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I don’t know if brunch has a season, really. But something about the warming temperatures and the clearing skies makes me think about lazy Sunday mornings full of waffles and liquor.
What’s more, there’s been a significant amount of movement in Philly’s brunch scene lately — the sense of an entire section of the restaurant industry gearing up for those same sunny days. We’ve got new brunches, updated brunches, bottomless brunches, all sorts of things. So for those of you out there for whom brunch is a vital part of the weekend routine, we’ve got some suggestions. A list of Where To Eat Brunch Right Now. And it begins with…
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I did not love Suga when I reviewed it last year. It was confusing, inconsistent, and it didn’t seem to know exactly what kind of restaurant it wanted to be.
But you know what? I’ve never stopped thinking about the place. While a lot of restaurants I go to pass immediately into my rearview the minute I’m done reviewing them (because it’s always time to move onto the next and the next and the next), Suga did not. I was weirdly fascinated by the dishes (grilled asparagus with broccoli mousse, Shanxi pasta with lamb ragu, maitake mushroom ravioli) being done by Susanna Foo, her son Gabriel and the crew in their kitchen, and have never stopped wondering what they were going to try next.
Speaking of which…
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