Bells Ring For Bindi
Craig LaBan visits Marcie Turney’s and Valerie Safran’s Bindi and finds a thoughtful update to Indian food.
Turneyâ€™s pork vindaloo, though, may be Bindiâ€™s best example of a refined classic. The typical slow-stewed meat is upgraded with yieldingly soft seared tenderloin. And the meatâ€™s aromatic crust of black cardamom, clove, cumin and nigella seeds sparks against the hot and sour gravy, a vinegar- and wine-tinged brew that unfurls with sweet spice on the tongue before a final whip-crack of chile heat. A comforting puree of creamy cauliflower and a sweet mango-date chutney cushions the vindalooâ€™s bold flavors.
Three Bells – Excellent
An update of Indian cuisine, faithful to authentic flavors [Philadelphia Inquirer]
Bindi [Official Site]