Filter Dining Room Charms in a Charmed Space
Brian Freedman extols the virtues of Fitler Dining Room, the most recent occupant of the charmed space that is the northwest corner of 22nd and Spruce.
For the short period of time that Fitler has been open, its food is remarkably confident: The distance between the intent of each dish and its execution is virtually nonexistent. And the way it straddles the line between higher-concept and comfort is something that many restaurants far further along in their evolution still struggle to achieve. Tagliatelle, hand-cut and tender, arrives all tangled around nettles, spring peas and ramps. Smoked chèvre melts when the hen egg nesting in the center of it all is broken and mixed into the noodles, creating a deeply flavorful sauce and providing a perfect framing mechanism for those bright spring flavors. Braised beef cheek arrived all shimmering black like some sort of lacquered jewelry box. For a chilly, early spring evening, it was perfect.
Fitler Dining Room opens in a charmed space, seems poised to succeed [Philadelphia Weekly]
Fitler Dining Room [Official Site]