Twisted Tail Held to the Coals
Adam Erace isn’t very pleased with the food at Twisted Tail though the Primal Chili is a notable exception. But it is his description of the onion tart that has us chuckling.
The onion tart, an English recipe Stevenson and Reilly have been “perfecting” since the Twisted Tail opened, was a mess, literally. It looked like it had been assembled by a three-toed sloth with Parkinson’s, and featured so few slices of Vidalia I could count them. The onions that did make it into the flaky, curry-spiced pastry shell were as pallid and scrawny as Michael Cera in Juno, no caramelization whatsoever, and the blobs of chèvre were indistinguishable. The only highlight of this Easy-Bake reject was the tangy jicama/apple-slaw side. I’ll take a large appetizer of that, please, and maybe the cast-iron skillet of smoky creamed Silver Queen corn larded with Asiago and curls of crunchy bacon.