Adam Erace Reviews 943

Don’t mind what’s been 86ed at 943, Adam Erace says Pat Cancelliere’s 9th Street BYOB flows seamlessly between Italian and Argentinian.

Good things come to those who wait: knots of housemade al dente pappardelle (Cancelliere’s favorite cut) tossed with shrimp, basil and a light, bright tomato broth; crisp-enough-to-hear-it chicken Milanese, thicker than the breaded cutlets from the butchers down the street and, shy of an extra sprinkle of salt, perfect; and a thicket of twice-fried, parsley-flecked papas fritas fortified with enough garlic to repel every bloodsucker (and most dates) within a 10-mile radius. Try the fries con huevo: For a-la-minute egg scrambling, Cancelliere keeps a pan hot on a burner, rippling with garlic oil.

9 Lives [City Paper]
@943BYOB [Twitter]