Cooper’s In Manayunk
Craig LaBan puts Jake’s casual sibling, Cooper’s Brick Oven Wine Bar through its paces
There are the pizzas, of course, which are excellent, their heat-blistered crusts (more crackery flatbread than stretchy pizza dough) laden with well-parsed toppings. The margherita was a fine version of the minimalist classic, its basil-tinged tomato brightness spotted with milky clouds of Claudio’s mozzarella. The “spicy meatball” dialed the zestiness up a notch, with a twinge of chile-flake heat beneath tender veal meatballs and creamy Mancuso ricotta.
Two Bells – Very Good