Elisa Ludwig tests out Pojangmacha, a Korean restaurant in Upper Darby housed in what was once a White Castle.

The specialty of the house is gamjatang, a spicy, make-you-sniffle stew of potatoes and pork in a crimson chili-paste broth strewn with long strands of scallion, served with a burner and finished on the table. The pork in question is spine, so eating the stew is a process of disentangling the tiny sculpted bones from the shreds of meat. The quartered potatoes, meanwhile, absorb the simmering bone marrow and take on an unctuous, buttery texture. A few spoonfuls followed by sips of sweet wine very quickly becomes an addictive little pattern that could have you there for hours at a sitting, thanking your lucky chopsticks that this wagon isn’t going anywhere.

Pojangmacha [City Paper]