Critic’s Notebook: Second Bite: The Ugly American

Back in the April issue, I sang the praises of The Ugly American on Front Street. I recently revisited the place, and I’m happy to report that while the menu has changed significantly, the food is every bit as good as it was back when I paid my initial visits.

I sampled several new items, including duck nachos with black beans and a spicy chili sauce; a trout sandwich with cucumbers and remoulade on house-baked black bread; and a salad of frisée, sautéed wild mushrooms, a poached egg, creamer potatoes and a lemony truffle vinaigrette. I was disappointed to see that the apple pie and cheddar ice cream I loved before was no longer on the menu, but the in-season blueberry buckle with house-made vanilla ice cream was an equally delicious dessert.