Two Bells for Pickled Heron on Frankford Avenue
Craig LaBan finds enough to like from do-it-yourselfers Daniela D’Ambrosio and Todd Braley in his review of Pickled Heron on Frankford Avenue.
Both trained at culinary schools (New England Culinary Institute for her; Restaurant School for him), and they met during their years working at the Ritz-Carlton Grill, under both Terence Feury and Kevin Sbraga.
That experience shone through a number of fine flavors on their seasonal, ever-changing menu, giving good reason to come back. Wonderfully tender grilled octopus tumbled with baby fennel bulbs and tart segments of blood orange. Plump seared scallops take on an almost meaty south-of-France quality with bacony red-wine sauce, hedgehog mushrooms, and sweet salsify. Thin-stemmed roasted beech mushrooms and a crispy cake of white beans come beside a tender breast of veal rolled around a pinwheel of lemony sorrel – a clear emblem of the old-school Larousse aesthetic partly informing this kitchen.
Two Bells – Very Good
Pickled Heron [Philadelphia Inquirer]
Pickled Heron [Official Site]
Photo by Georgi Anastasov