Heirloom Faces Some Challenges in Farm-to-Table Market
Heirloom faces some challenges defining itself and being true to its farm-to-table descriptor. But Trey Popp finds that you can have a good meal at the Chestnut Hill BYOB.
Stick to ordering comfort food that’s in tune with the season, and you’ll be happy and well fed. That chicken, cold-smoked for hours in a contraption of Paris’s manufacture, tops any barbecue-pit effort within 200 miles, and I liked its side of smoky parsnip hash, too. Aside from a couple of rubbery oysters, his purloo hit the mark—primarily via its use of true Carolina Gold rice. His crabcake was all crab, over a filé-powdered shrimp gumbo sweet and soulful with roasted red peppers. And a rib-sticking supper can have few better ends than Heirloom’s doughnut apple pie.
Two Stars – Good