Fare Is Uneven for LaBan
Underseasoning and overcooking dooms Craig LaBan’s time at Fairmount’s healthy restaurant, Fare.
Some potentially good dishes fell flat simply because the kitchen failed to build layers of seasoned flavor over the course of slow cooking, whether it was a braised pork shank special that was tender but dull (and for some reason charred black on top), or an undercured duck confit with cassoulet beans that was surprisingly indulgent (more fat on that thigh than the entire rest of the menu), but also unpleasantly elastic due to undercooking. I would have loved the apppetizer of melted leeks and fennel over goat cheese if they had been seasoned even a little.
One Bell – Hit-or-Miss
Fare [Philadelphia Inquirer]
Fare [Official Site]