Two Bells for Manayunk’s Gemelli on Main
Craig LaBan checks out Clark Gilbert’s latest stop, Gemelli on Main. The talented chef is on to his tenth restaurant in 16 years, this one along Main Street in Manayunk. LaBan finds it recommendable but has quibbles over price and some other details.
Rabbit legs are slow-cooked confit-style, then whipped into a creamy rillettes to be served like a puck of pâté with lentil salad. A seared duck breast starter – cooked rare and served cool, like roast beef – was shingled like cards over a lively celery root salad. Beef tartare, meanwhile, continuing the cold-meat theme, was glazed in a perfectly mustardy dressing but wasted its most brilliant idea – a cockle salad in curried vinaigrette – by setting it so coyly off to the side that it was nearly lost as an afterthought. I’d return for that dish alone, more boldly blended, especially now that it’s switched to venison.
Two Bells – Very Good