Philly’s Next Great BYOB
Craig LaBan may not like the name The Farm and Fisherman but he had heaps of praise for the rest of the experience at Josh Lawler’s truly farm to table BYOB.
He has resurrected a favorite childhood bycatch – sea robin – whose perchlike fillets pose atop airy gnocchi with morsels of poached lobster in a rich crustacean broth infused with lemon balm. The seared sea scallops were also gorgeous. But it was garnish that really knocked me out, a long rail of tiny pasta beads in lemon-lovage vinaigrette jeweled with so many tiny textures – shaved asparagus and breakfast radish, snappy pine nuts and tiny currants – that once I added a sweet-and-sour dab of reduced green tomatoes and verjus, the flavors made the plate spin.
Three Bells – Excellent