Better Than Ever at Le Virtu
Craig LaBan re-visits Le Virtu and deems it the “South Philadelphia’s best authentic Italian restaurant.”
[T]here is also a new refinement to the food here that seems to elevate virtually every dish. The beet salad paired with creamy smears of house-made ricotta looks like a naturalist still-life of multicolor roots, shaved radishes, and baby greens. The occasional lasagna night brings little crocks of delicate crepes layered with artichoke cream that practically melts off the fork.
Pastas such as the “handkerchief” fazzoletti topped with duck ragu, always a favorite, were better than ever. But there are also elegant agnolotti stuffed with braised porchetta meat tossed in truffled brown butter and a dusting of amaretti crumbs from crushed biscotti. Chanterelles and a rich porcini butter were an unexpected luxury in a special ravioli filled with sweetbreads.
Three Bells – Excellent