Good and Green at Kennett

Craig LaBan gets over his non-composter’s guilt and settles in to enjoy the seasonal and green dishes at Queen Village’s Kennett.

[Kennett] has a rustic approach that is satisfying when it’s on the mark, and is especially strong with starters that seem inspired by a cold-weather farm market. Creamy stewed butter beans come ladled over grilled brioche toast beneath a panfried egg. Brussels sprouts roasted with coriander and bacon tumble with thick slices of sunchoke, their nutty snap reminiscent of a fresh water chestnut.

Two Bells – Very Good

Kennett Restaurant [Philadelphia Inquirer]