Year in Review: February



Dish of the Month

Cold Beef with tripe at Han Dynasty

I’ve eaten tripe in half a dozen countries and I’ve hated it every time. Rubbery and flavorless makes it sound better than it is. It’s not so much a food of poverty as one of utter desperation. The only reason I submitted to it here was to avoid losing face. So the subsequent epiphany was all the more shocking. Sliced, like the beef it mingled with, into strips almost as thin as cellophane wrap, Han’s flavorless tripe became a sounding board for a symphony of minced peanuts and sesame seeds in a slick of chili oil the color of pale rubies. The cold plate was incendiary with capsaicin, yet every single seed and nut fragment drummed open a taste bud, like rapid-fire timbale rimshots above the slow bass-drum beat of shaved beef. – Trey Popp, City Paper

Quote of the Month

It looked as if it had been plated by a bucket, not a chef. Craig LaBan regarding MidAtlantic.

Notable Openings

Garces Trading Co., Hoof+Fin, Le Viet, Maru Global Takoyaki

Notable Closings

Dr. Watson’s