Argentinian Flavors at Hoof + Fin
Craig LaBan takes Argentinian BYOB Hoof + Fin to task on the noise level but doesn’t have many complaints about the food.
I much preferred Barroz’s takes on the more Euro-centric-style of slow-braising short ribs – cooked down with malbec wine into a hearty ragu ladled over wide ribbons of pappardelle pasta, or served like a meaty brick tenderized from eight hours of slow-steeping in citrusy sangria, alongside thick-cut rails of super-crisp potatoes topped with a garlicky ProvenÃ§al mince of parsley.
A little European touch isn’t out of place, especially considering the strong Italian influence that stamps Argentine cuisine. It’s reflected on this menu, too, in some impressive house-made pastas, like the melt-away nubs of ricotta gnocchi that simply dissolve in a truffled gloss of brown butter, sage and capers.
Two Bells – Very Good