Argentinian Flavors at Hoof + Fin

Craig LaBan takes Argentinian BYOB Hoof + Fin to task on the noise level but doesn’t have many complaints about the food.

I much preferred Barroz’s takes on the more Euro-centric-style of slow-braising short ribs – cooked down with malbec wine into a hearty ragu ladled over wide ribbons of pappardelle pasta, or served like a meaty brick tenderized from eight hours of slow-steeping in citrusy sangria, alongside thick-cut rails of super-crisp potatoes topped with a garlicky Provençal mince of parsley.

A little European touch isn’t out of place, especially considering the strong Italian influence that stamps Argentine cuisine. It’s reflected on this menu, too, in some impressive house-made pastas, like the melt-away nubs of ricotta gnocchi that simply dissolve in a truffled gloss of brown butter, sage and capers.

Two Bells – Very Good

Hoof + Fin [Philadelphia Inquirer]
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