Adam Erace wonders aloud whether Hoof + Fin is the best new restaurant in Philadelphia.
Thereâ€™s no guessing at Hoof + Fin. Empanadas are empanadas, flaky and filled with sweet corn and Manchego cheese. Ceviche is ceviche, fluke or tuna bejeweled with summery watermelon. And beef is most certainly beef. In Argentina, cow is king, and Barroz, a native of CÃ³rdoba, knows how to cook one inside (grilled sweetbreads with mint!) and out. His grilled, chimichurri-marinated skirt steak is an intensely beefy, smoky experience, 10 ounces of rare grass-fed ribbons resonating with garlic and herbs and tradition.