Seasons 52 Gets Gonged
Craig LaBan is never easy on chains but maybe Seasons 52 at the Cherry Hill Mall will fare better. After all, there is the promise of fresh, seasonal and healthy food.
Simply writing fresh</em all over the sign and menu and decorating the foyer with a water wall and fireplace doesn't make this restaurant any more attuned to the seasons than the next. In truth, there are enough frozen products, pink tomatoes, and prefab sauces used here that the label is really a stretch.
Even the essential building block of its best items – dough for the long, paper-thin flatbreads – arrives prepackaged and frozen. That doesn't mean they aren't addictively tasty when properly cooked, scattered with shavings of sirloin, mushrooms, and blue cheese; or with tiny shrimps, cubed pineapple, and tangy streaks of (premade) chipotle sauce. But execution is a nagging issue here, and many of those delicate breads came burnt to an unsavory brown.
One Bell – Hit or Miss