Sonam

Adam Erace checks out Sonam on South Street and finds the simpler dishes the best with the notable exception of the cheesesteak terrine.

Served with creme fraiche and truffled wonton chips, the dynamic wild boar tartare dressed with curry, blood orange juice and chopped black truffles blows my mind, as does the fried butternut-squash-and-chicken wontons alongside a cloud of woodsy sage whipped cream. Fun s’mores made with gooey fig paste, ethereal goat-cheese marshmallows and cardboard- flavored wheat crackers play savory and sweet, while chicharrones make a salty counterpoint for dense chocolate gelato.

A notable exception to the simpler-is-better theory: the cheesesteak terrine. Served with a sideswipe of provolone “wiz,” hot-pepper duxelle and candy-like tomato molasses it’s messy, complicated and hard to eat. But dragged through those clever condiments, each forkful of onion-studded cheesesteak mousse is a beefy wonder that proves playfulness and maturity are not mutually exclusive. Translate that balance to the rest of the menu, and Sonam has a shot at being Philly’s next small-plate paramour.

Dim Sum Like It Hot [Philadelphia Weekly]