Where We’re Eating: Gemelli

Gemelli,  Narberth

As neighborhood spots go, you’re lucky if yours has the exposed-brick-and-flickering-candle charm of this small Italian BYO, or a dish as fantastic as the vitello tonnato—luscious braised veal cheek topped with cold tuna tartare and a pile of micro-greens, set off by a tangy Caesar dressing. Not everything here rises to such heights—a bucatini in vodka sauce was bland—but there’s a lot to like, from the cozy ambience and amiable service to the indulgent arancini (risotto and gorgonzola croquettes atop a sweet romesco sauce, pictured). Insider tip: Skip the car; take the train. Gemelli is a pretty five-minute walk from the station.      232 Woodbine Avenue, Narberth, 610-660-0160