Summer Food 2005: BYOBs

In the beginning, there was a trendlet of little neighborhood joints. Now, ambitious, stylish bring-your-own spots open on a seemingly daily basis, from Kennett Square to Rittenhouse Square. Our guide to which ones merit a $9 syrah, and which beg for a Super Tuscan in your wine tote

Brunch

RX
4443 Spruce Street, 215-222-9590;
caferx.com
Worth noting: Saturday and Sunday brunch.
Brunch for two: About $25.

On a rainy Saturday, nearly every table was taken in this former pharmacy frequented by West Philly students and their profs, where the service is brisk, and the dress code is jeans or denim jackets. A splash of champagne will turn the fresh-squeezed orange juice into a mimosa. Hanger steak and eggs is suitable for an easy-drinking red wine; there’s a dolphin-safe tuna melt if you’ve brought a white; and a wrap sandwich filled with scrambled eggs, black bean salsa, chorizo and cheddar would go down well with a beer. Chef Tim Olivett’s dinners are more ambitious in scope — squab, truffled grits, foie gras-glazed chicken and the like.

THE TORTILLA PRESS
703 Haddon Avenue, Collingswood, 856-869-3345; thetortillapress.com
Worth noting: A newsletter often has discount coupons; sign up online.
Brunch for two: About $45.

Such a deal: Brunch at the Tortilla Press includes salad, an appetizer, an entrée and a beverage, with the total based on the entrée price; most meals are $12 to $18. Entrées change from week to week; they include huevos rancheros with guajillo salsa and queso fresco, fish tacos, and pan perdida, a Mexican version of French toast. The virgin margaritas are delicious, and the room throbs with color like a Frida Kahlo painting.