Summer Food 2005: BYOBs
SANG KEE ASIAN BISTRO
339 East Lancaster Avenue, Wynnewood, 610-658-0618;
sangkeeasianbistro.com
Worth noting: An old favorite adds a Main Line branch.
Dinner for two: About $45.
Kids will be captivated by the TVs built into the dining counter that borders the bustling open kitchen, and Mom and Dad will marvel at the sleekness of this suburban Sang Kee, with its zigzag orange paper lanterns overhead and handsome earth-toned tilework. Can this possibly be related to the hole-in-the-wall duck house in Chinatown, dedicated to cheap eats since 1980? Yes, all the dishes we know by heart are here, including translucent steamed dumplings filled with watercress, shrimp and pork; puffy salt-baked shrimp (or squid) with fresh jalapeño; and fat udon noodles stir-fried with roast duck, which is supposed to be spicy, but wasn’t. It’s family-friendly, group-friendly fare, though fans of hot or assertive spices will have to speak up to get them.
SOLA
614 West Lancaster Avenue, Bryn Mawr; 610-526-0123
Worth noting: Beautiful desserts.
Dinner for two: About $110.
John Wolferth knows what the Main Line likes for dinner, having cooked at the Wooden Iron in Wayne and La Parisienne in Ardmore. His American menu is more familiar than contemporary, but is presented with flair. Pastry-wrapped Camembert on arugula is an appetizer you might meet at a dinner party in Devon. Buttermilk-battered fried oysters, on lime-kissed shredded jicama, are striped with spicy rémoulade. The oversize crisp duck spring roll and enormous garlic-rubbed rib-eye steak look clunky in this well-tailored room, dressed up with two-tone wainscoting, dappled art glass pendant lights and potted orchids. A syrupy Asian-spiced sauce on the roasted duck breast was so sweet it made my teeth hurt. I’d rather get my sugar fix from the lovely lemon tart, or the roasted pine nut and caramel gelato, served in a clamshell-size cookie.
Italian
CAFFE CASTA DIVA
227 South 20th Street; 215-496-9677
Worth noting: No credit cards.
Dinner for two: About $95.
Moderately priced pastas, coupon discounts and big portions have built a loyal following for Stephen Vassalluzzo’s tiny trattoria near Rittenhouse Square, where the sounds of opera and the scent of garlic predominate, and the chef pops into the dining room frequently to schmooze regulars. The spinach fettuccine with house-made rabbit sausage tastes heavy right now; among dishes that don’t are eggplant roulade filled with goat cheese and asparagus; balsamic-glazed portabella mushrooms with red bell peppers; and tender roast duck with figs. Crème brûlée and cannoli were just okay. Even with a reservation, you may have to wait for one of the closely spaced tables.
L’ANGOLO
1415 Porter Street; 215-389-4252
Worth noting: Parking is impossible. Find a meter spot on Broad Street, or take the subway to the Oregon Avenue stop and walk two blocks.
Dinner for two: About $75.
The waiters are cute and flirtatious. The limoncello at the meal’s end is complimentary. Those are just bonuses at L’Angolo, where the main attraction is Davide Faenza’s expansive array of vegetable antipasti, grilled calamari, handmade pappardelle, and a terrific veal chop with a ragout of mixed mushrooms. Faenza, from Gallipoli, down in Italy’s heel, and his American wife, Kathryn, have created a casual place that feels welcoming and familiar, even to first-time customers. It’s a convenient dinner stop if you’re heading down to a game or concert at the sports complex. Very popular; reservations are a must.
