Summer Food: The Tastes of Summer: Fresh Fish

Chilled ceviche, crudo and sushi taste even better when the humidity is opperssive.

* When Taylor Bay scallops and diver scallops are abundant in July and August, ceviche master Guillermo Pernot at Pasión (211 South 15th Street, 215-875-9895; combines them with tomatoes, blackened tomatillos, lime juice and truffle oil. The price of lobster also drops, ushering in Pernot’s blanched lobster ceviche with vanilla, habanero pepper, caracara orange and Mexican anise liqueur.

* Crudo is Italy’s answer to ceviche. At Positano Coast (212 Walnut Street, 215-238-0499;, the pressed-to-the-plate mahimahi tartare (left) is as lovely to behold as it is to consume, topped with radicchio and arugula, polenta croutons, garlic chips and smoked mozzarella. Chef Pippo Lamberti also does a trio tasting appetizer of the market’s best fish, simply dressed. This month, look for sea urchins, scallops, black sea bass, yellowtail and striped bass.

* For a more substantial meal, sample the highly creative sushi rolls at Bonjung (50 West 3rd Avenue, Collegeville, 610-489-7022;, a popular BYOB restaurant near Ursinus College. Sushi chefs Yonemoto and Rony, who both previously worked at Genji, have fun incorporating tempura soft-shell crabs, tuna, eel and other luxe ingredients into their fancifully named Last Samurai Roll, Sunset Mount Fuji Roll and Mudslide Roll. The top-of-the-line Red Lobster Roll takes its name from red tobiko, not the chain restaurant.