Inside Philly’s Hottest New Dining Trend: Asian Breakfast
These new restaurants are redefining Philly mornings with masala eggs benny, rice rolls, and calamansi doughnuts.
Baby’s ensaymada / Photograph by Mike Prince
From nostalgic family recipes served in intimate mom-and-pop shops to modern reimaginings inspired by American diners and Japanese convenience stores, Philly’s Asian breakfast scene is percolating with a wide range of diasporic expression. Savory-sweet meats, bánh mì topped with eggs, ube-tinged pastries, congee — it’s what many Philadelphians are craving first thing in the morning, and, over the past year, a growing number of restaurants have opened to meet the demand.
“I think that people’s tastes are diversifying,” said Raquel Villanueva Dang, owner of Filipino restaurant Baby’s Kusina and Market in Brewerytown. “And we’re excited to see that.”
Baby’s offers Filipino staples that echo Villanueva Dang’s upbringing, including the “Rich Tita Sando,” made with pork longganisa, a sweet-savory Filipino sausage, and a fried egg on a house-made traditional bread called pan de sal.
Similar to Baby’s, Griddle and Rice, a family-owned Indonesian spot in South Philly, did pop-ups first before opening their storefront in May. They’re one of the first (if not the first) to serve Indonesian breakfast in Philly. Amalia Yutama, who helps manage the family business, said their breakfast platter, which includes fried chicken and coconut rice, was a typical meal her parents would eat back home and reflects what the Indonesian community expects to find. “I think the community is the biggest part and kind of what built this place for us,” Yutama said. “They were really our foundation.”
Rich Tita breakfast sandwich at Baby’s Kusina and Market / Photograph by Mike Prince
East Asian breakfast items have also rolled into town. Yi Jin Rice Rolls, a recently opened Cantonese franchise in Chinatown, was born from a desire to bring traditional Guangzhou-style rice rolls and congee to Philly, something owner Kevin Zhou couldn’t find when he first moved here. “Every time he wanted rice rolls, he had to travel to New York or to the West Coast to get it, so he decided that he wanted to open up his own rice roll shop,” said Shannon Mah, a representative of the restaurant.
Soon, that range will expand even further with dancerobot, the much-anticipated new venture from chef Jesse Ito and chef-partner Justin Bacharach (of Royal Sushi & Izakaya), which will include traditional Japanese breakfasts like Japanese pancakes, homemade milk bread toasts, and teishoku. “It’s not what most Americans would expect breakfast would be because it’s savory; it’s fish; it’s rice; but personally, I think it’s the best way to start your day,” Bacharach says.
Whether it’s rice bowls, rolls, or a breakfast sando, here are the newest heavy hitters on the Asian breakfast scene.
Where to Get Asian Breakfast in Philly
Ube matcha drink with ube pastries at Baby’s Kusina and Market / Photograph by Mike Prince
Baby’s Kusina and Market, Brewerytown
Cuisine: Filipino
In addition to their beloved breakfast sandwiches, Baby’s Kusina also has rice platters, or silogs. Their tocilog (tocino-silog), which is a tamari-pineapple-marinated chicken thigh with tomato, cucumber, and jasmine rice, is a favorite on the weekend brunch menu. Don’t skip out on their pastries like the calamansi doughnut or anything with ube, and get a bag of pan de sal to-go if you’re there on a weekend. Baby’s also sources their coffee beans from Batangas, a region in the Philippines beloved for a good cup of Joe. The beans are roasted locally at Càphê Roasters, the only Vietnamese roastery in the city, as a nod to both her and her husband’s cultural roots. 2816 West Girard Avenue.
The breakfast platter at Griddle and Rice / Photograph by Kristine Villanueva
Griddle and Rice, South Philly
Cuisine: Indonesian
Focusing on Indonesian breakfast, this family-run shop serves the bold flavors of Jakarta mornings to South Philly. Their breakfast platter, nasi uduk, consists of fragrant coconut rice with fried chicken, shredded egg, a veggie pancake called bakwan sayur, sweet soy tempeh, and sambal. Pair it with es kopi gula aren (iced coffee with palm sugar) for the complete experience. The chef’s favorite is also the smashed chicken platter, which is equally delicious. Bonus: All their meat is halal. 2151 South 22nd Street.
Yi Jin Rice Rolls, Chinatown
Cuisine: Cantonese
At Yi Jin Rice Rolls, traditional Cantonese techniques take center stage. The rice is soaked and stone-milled in-house into a silky batter, then steamed on cloth-covered trays to create delicate, thinly layered rice rolls that are expertly rolled and topped with savory sauces. Fan favorites include beef, barbecue pork, and their popular dough stick option, a crowd-pleaser among both Asian and Western diners. Try their chicken shiitake mushroom congee and freshly made soy milk to round out a true Cantonese meal. 908 Cherry Street.
Hannah K Cafe / Photograph by Mike Prince
Hannah K Cafe, Point Breeze
Cuisine: Vietnamese
A vibrant addition to Philly’s breakfast scene, Hannah K Cafe is the latest venture from Huyen Thai Dinh, the creator of The Breakfast Den. The menu highlights a creative approach to combining Vietnamese flavors with American breakfast staples. Try the shaking beef and eggs bánh mì, a hearty sandwich with tender marinated beef, scrambled eggs, and fresh herbs, or their take on shrimp and grits — a bowl of classic American-southern-style grits topped with lemongrass shrimp. 1200 Point Breeze Avenue.
Sura Indian Bistro, Rittenhouse
Cuisine: Indian
Sura Indian Bistro showcases the breadth of Indian cuisine from the country’s different regions. Their brunch menu features a South Asian twist on morning favorites such as the masala eggs benny and chicken tikka benny. Other comforting staples include masala chicken ghotala and the Indian ghotala — an Indian-style shakshuka served with garlic butter rolls. 1726 Chestnut Street.
Coming soon: dancerobot, Rittenhouse
Cuisine: Japanese
Set to open at the end of the summer, dancerobot will have a traditional Japanese breakfast as their teishoku (or set meal) comprised of either broiled mackerel or miso-marinated king salmon, rice, miso soup, and side dishes called kobachi, such as a lightly pickled tomato with shiso, simmered broccolini with sweet sesame sauce, and simmered vegetables in soy ginger dashi broth. Bacharach also draws inspiration from the American diners he went to as a kid, as well as Japanese comfort foods. Expect to see fluffy pancakes and convenience store favorites such as kare pan — a yeasted American doughnut with Japanese curry — on the menu. 1710 Sansom Street.
