Where We’re Eating: Rembrandt’s in Fairmount

I heard complaints from three separate regulars of Rembrandt’s, that this longtime neighborhood tavern had become too “precious” since bringing in a fancy chef from Buddakan, and was screwing things up by changing old menu favorites. “Bring back my turkey burger!” insisted one. On my visit, things started off rough with imperfectly shucked warm oysters and an unpalatable pickle plate, but steadily improved with the beet salad, bacon-wrapped dates and better-than-most crispy roast chicken. I can understand where my Fairmount friends are coming from, but if I lived nearby, I’d be back once a week for that bird alone.

741 North 23rd Street