Reviewing David Katz’s Menu at Morgan’s Pier
We catch up with Adam Erace who reviewed Morgan’s Pier last Thursday and the “backyard barbecue” menu put together by David Katz of the recently shuttered Mémé.
To start, he’d make burgers. Veil them in good old-fashioned orange American cheese and tuck them into soft-as-earmuffs Martin’s potato buns. With the sole flourish of relish, this is the Morgan’s Pier burger, born of the opinionated Katz’s rigid burger doctrine: thin, West Coast-style 5-ounce sirloin patty, minimal ornamentation and a bun that is decidedly not made of brioche. The only concession he makes is to grill the patties, in keeping with the backyard-barbecue theme; truth be told, he’d prefer the flat top. No matter. Not to player-hate on the beefier, gussied-up specimens around town, but my juicy, pink-centered double cheeseburger at Morgan’s Pier delivered a primal, straightforward satisfaction that think-ier versions just can’t convey.