Taste Over Execution at Ela
Adam Erace says originality and taste get Jason Cichonski off the hook for spotty execution at Ela.
Cichonski’s flavor combinations were often so captivating, the execution issues fell into the background. The ingredients ring out like reels on a slot machine, seemingly at random: sourdough, broccoli rabe, pear. But together, they work. That trio informed the pork belly, served over twangy sushi rice “risotto” injected with a sourdough starter, straight-up sautéed rabe that would be at home at John’s Roast Pork and a comet of airy, pear-y purée.