Food Still Lags at Farmers’ Cabinet
Adam Erace loves the drink program at Farmers’ Cabinet. But he finds that even after two months as chef, Jason Goodman is still working out the kinks.
House-made merguez, for example, a friggin’ firecracker alongside a pan-seared lamb loin with pearl barley and delicata purée. Or meaty, crunchy tempura frog legs stuffed with pork shoulder, a creation (currently not on the menu) so prep-intensive and so clever it makes me think Goodman is either a masochist or a genius.Those glimmers mesmerized, but like fireflies, they flashed with frustrating infrequence. Under Goodman, the food here has taken a step up, but overall, it’s still half a dozen reading levels below the restaurant’s peerless beverage program, immersive atmosphere and taut service.