Left Wanting at Twisted Tail
Brian Freedman reviews Twisted Tail and has a word of advice to the kitchen, loosen up and break free.
Special house-cured pork belly arrived as a crestfallen study in tans and earth tones, and the flavor followed suit. Aside from its pleasant rib-rub perfume, this pig was about as exciting as a concert featuring Michael Bolton singing alongside Kenny G. Lamb shoulder, too, was a curiosity: Sliced into careful petals, it was well-cooked, sure, but the cardamom, coriander and fresh orange juice it was treated to should have belted out their respective tunes with more volume and clarity. Garlicky parsnip-potato gratin in the center provided literal and figurative ballast, as well as excitement, but not quite enough.