Center City Grille Defeats Critic


Brian Freedman has a ghastly time of it at Center City Grille at the corner of 20th and Ludlow.

Center City Grille’s mushroom soup has finally defeated me. It is inedible.

This innocent-sounding bowlful arrived at the table trailing an odor that can only be described as “uncomfortably human,” like certain dank corners of the SEPTA concourse on a hot summer day. Finding its aromatic center of gravity somewhere barely south of searing, its flavor was, mercifully, less evil than I’d expected. But that’s no great endorsement, and the slippery knobs of mushroom failed to improve with further exploratory bites.

Center City Grille [Philadelphia Weekly]