Im-pressed with Zinc
A silver presse brings Craig LaBan into Zinc Bistro a Vins where he finds more than just pressed duck that pleases.
Zinc’s menu has settled into a consistent groove of homey cuisine bourgeoise. Wild mushrooms and sweet batons of earthy salsify root arrive in a buttery port glaze, sandwiched between puff pastry. Tender snails and melted leeks splashed with Pernod mingle with snappy walnuts beneath a lightly gratinÃ©ed crust. A crispy hunk of tender pork belly is posed over a mound of choucroute scented with caraway and bacon so satisfyingly tangy, I wish the appetizer had been expanded (with maybe a sausage or two) into an entrÃ©e.
And there are numerous other daily inspirations here drawn from the canon of French country cooking that are often hard to find convincingly done, if at all – such as a succulent chicken basquaise, tossed with peppers and (Zinc’s embellishment) crumbled sausage, or a marvelous bowl of pristine tripe, stewed in cider vinegar, wine, and clove for 13 hours, then tossed with potatoes and finished with a splash of Calvados.
Two Bells – Very Good