Im-pressed with Zinc

A silver presse brings Craig LaBan into Zinc Bistro a Vins where he finds more than just pressed duck that pleases.

Zinc’s menu has settled into a consistent groove of homey cuisine bourgeoise. Wild mushrooms and sweet batons of earthy salsify root arrive in a buttery port glaze, sandwiched between puff pastry. Tender snails and melted leeks splashed with Pernod mingle with snappy walnuts beneath a lightly gratinéed crust. A crispy hunk of tender pork belly is posed over a mound of choucroute scented with caraway and bacon so satisfyingly tangy, I wish the appetizer had been expanded (with maybe a sausage or two) into an entrée.

And there are numerous other daily inspirations here drawn from the canon of French country cooking that are often hard to find convincingly done, if at all – such as a succulent chicken basquaise, tossed with peppers and (Zinc’s embellishment) crumbled sausage, or a marvelous bowl of pristine tripe, stewed in cider vinegar, wine, and clove for 13 hours, then tossed with potatoes and finished with a splash of Calvados.

Two Bells – Very Good

Zinc Bistro à Vins [Philadelphia Inquirer]
Zinc Bistro à Vins [Official Site]