Brazilian Meat without the Shtick
Brian Freedman visits the Northeast’s Picanha Grill for a more authentic look at Brazilian barbecue than that found in Center City’s shrines to meat. And we’re happy to report he came back with heaps of praise.
Skirt steak was a sweet-crusted, earth-perfumed cut of astounding tenderness. Brisketâ€”with apologies to my motherâ€”was the best Iâ€™ve ever tasted. Its seasoning was taken right up to the point beyond which it would have been off-puttingly salty, but Chef Alexanbre Alvef, a veritable master of beef and Brazilian charcoal, held it just short of that line. The deep savoriness combined with the arcs of caramelized fat to create something that the table began referring to as â€œbeef crack.â€