Tweed Reviewed

Trey Popp visits 12th Street’s Tweed and finds it an uneven affair.

Some of the chef’s most enjoyable items are his most plainspoken: a squash-heavy zucchini gratin, or scalloped potatoes perked up with savory boiled ham from Newtown’s Ely Farm, both cooked in miniature cast-iron casseroles that grant their contents a crisp you can’t get any other way. His roasted chicken has some of the crunchiest skin I’ve ever encountered—the dark meat could almost fool you into thinking it’s fried—and its mustard-carrot sauce is intense but not overwhelming.

But the menu is all over the map. There’s spaghetti and (too tough) meatballs; hiramasa sashimi flanked by splendidly spicy chipotle sauce, dreadfully dull curry sauce, perky wasabi sauce and crème fraîche; a flat-tasting duck burger outshone by cherry chutney.

1 1/2 Stars out of 4

Tweed [Philadelphia Magazine]
Tweed [Official Site]