3 Bells For Meritage
Craig LaBan reviews the transformed Meritage and finds that the Asian influenced cuisine of Anne Coll has made the neighborhood restaurant a destination.
[W]hat separates Coll from so many other fusion pretenders is the command of Asian ingredients that allows her to draw an uncommon depth and elegance of flavors. I’ve had Thai curried mussels a hundred times, but rarely have the Kaffir lime, basil, and lemongrass popped through the richness of coconut broth like hers.
A confident use of Three Crabs fish sauce is one secret that lends these dishes a snappy backbone, whether it’s the pristine dice of tuna tartare, shined with sesame and chile oil next to a tingly froth of wasabi-soy foam, or the cilantro-ginger marinade that gives the hanger steak a subtle tang.
Three Bells – Excellent