Fond, More Like Adulation
Trey Popp raves about East Passyunk’s Fond, heaping all sorts of praise onÂ the French BYOB.
It began with a teasing glance backward at summer: a shot-glass of cold watermelon soup spiced with chilies whose finish reverberated in waves of heat and sweetness for a full 10 seconds on my tongue. It ended with snow-crunch bites of lemon-poppy seed meringues. In between, Styer and Prawlucki composed a three-course ode to autumn that was nearly flawless in execution and design. Their tonal palette ranged from the watery crunch of Asian pear to the molten spill of butternut squash purÃ©e encased in ravioli, and from the intense fruitiness of passionfruit-stuffed crÃªpes to the revelatory bourbon backbone in a full-flavored frozen coffee-liqueur soufflÃ©. Yet at no point did the broad span of their short menu lapse into braggadocio. The spirit invigorating this simply decorated place showed through in the adorable delight with which Prawlucki fielded praise for her desserts â€” as if she were almost startled by the enthusiasm they’d inspired.