Saute Gets Two Bells

Craig LaBan enjoys the ambitious talent of chef Nicholas Cassidy even if he isn’t a big fan of the name of Saute.

[H]is menus reflect that restless curiosity, changing significantly from week to week, and ranging widely in influence from Latin seviche to house-made French charcuterie to the Asian-Italian fusion of seared tuna over soba carbonara, the buckwheat noodles tossed in a Parmesan froth with bacon and edamame.

With a few exceptions, Cassidy showed the sensibility, skill, and commitment to no-shortcut cooking that made these disparate flavors work.

Two Bells – Very Good

Saute [Philadelphia Inquirer]