All Saute Lacks Is A Calendar
Adam Erace visits Saute and has lots of good things to say about the cooking but he’s got a gripe with the menu’s lack of seasonality. Although these potatoes sound great, no matter the month.
As a sidecar to the new American entrees, fingerling potatoes arrive with a shiny duck-fat gloss that glints under the soft hazel lights of the former La Creole. Poached at 200 degrees in Talbotâ€™s lube of choice, the potatoes are possessed by an intensely ducklike essence. Each bite brings a slick of aromatic grease; a burst of papery, cast iron-crisped skin; a smush of creamy, slow-poached spud; a fleeting finish of concentrated wild game flavor. Topped with chives and a dollop of Daisy, these charmingly misshapen fingerlings are perfect. For December.
Simmer in the City [Philadelphia Weekly]