Beating Expectations At Akoya
Despite the bottle service and velvet ropes of Pearl being upstairs, Adam Erace says Akoya is all about the food.Â
Buttery miso-glazed pork belly kebabs were perfection for only $7. Tender short rib sliders (braised in pho paste) were a $12 trip to Vietnam. Indonesian- style spare ribs cured in-house and tossed in vibrant kecap manis â€™cue sauce: not so bad for $10â€”especially considering the accompanying mound of soulful, sweet soy baked beans mined with scraps of char sui pork. That East/West harmony blended so seamlessly, calling it fusion would be an insult.
With similar Asian flavors and dedicated tempura and yakitori sections, Akoyaâ€™s menu comes a little too close for comfort to Michael Schulsonâ€™s at Izakaya. But looking past that, Garbacz delivers better foodâ€”and the staff better serviceâ€”than youâ€™d ever expect in such swank surroundings.