Trey Popp vists Azul Cantina on Spruce Street and finds it to be uneven but with some potential.
The best dishes at Azul suggest that the culinary soil is plenty fertile. A seared sea scallop entrÃ©e, for instance, was among the best main courses I’ve had in a while. Half the plate was covered in a corn purÃ©e that got extra oomph from hot chiles de arbol. The moist scallops rode above, each crowned with a tuft of cilantro, a smattering of shallots that had been fried to a crisp and a squeeze of lime that injected a breezy brightness into the rich assembly. A side of grilled, intensely flavorful chayote squash came completely unadorned, which was just right.