Gulp, Swallow Gets One Bell

Pork au poivre at Swallow
Craig LaBan checks out Swallow, Northern Liberties newish French BYOB on Liberties Walk.

The food can still be a savior. Swallow’s menu, though, has struggled with consistency and the kind of culinary inspiration that entices diners to travel farther than a few blocks for dinner.

Some of the French-inflected dishes capture the satisfying essence of a simplicity done right. The big pork chop, for example, is tender and superbly moist, crusted in peppercorns and mustard with a side of sweet potato fries – a fair deal at $18. A starter of grilled fresh head-on sardines needed little more than sweet red peppers and roasted garlic to evoke a snack on the Mediterranean.

One Bell – Hit or Miss

Swallow [Philadelphia Inquirer]