Elisa Ludwig takes a look at the fine dining and wine-focused Meritage at 19th and Lombard.
Goodman has an especially judicious touch with fish and seafood. In the tuna tartare appetizer, cubes of fish glisten with olive oil and, on the palate, flare with shallot and jalapeÃ±o. Mussels in a sweet and spicy puttanesca are juicy little bursts of brine. Bar-side scallops with a speckled pan-given crust are well-matched with just-wilted spinach tossed with thin slivers of hearts of palm, the mild flavors of vegetable and shellfish accented with equal parts lemon juice and garlic.