Adam Erace finds nothing ugly at Ugly American, especially not Carla Goncalves’ biscuits.
The biscuits, though, are all Goncalvesâ€™. She does all the bakingâ€”from the French country loaves for the truffled mushroom â€œmeatballâ€ poâ€™ boys to the coarse-salt-and-caraway-sprinkled kaisers holding the beef-on-wick (Buffaloâ€™s version of the roast beef sandwich). The roll hugs the shaved beef and lacy onions well, keeping fingers dry even when the sandwich is plunged into the accompanying pool of au jus.
Both sandwiches are tasty and satisfying, but man, I just keep going back to those biscuits.