Reviews
Twice in a Lifetime: Whetstone Tavern Reviewed
Jeremy Nolen—chef at Whetstone, the man behind Brauhaus and Wursthaus Schmitz, lonely local champion of modern German cuisine and a fella who knows an awful […]
Chop Suey and Cheese Curds: Bud & Marilyn’s Reviewed
My problem with Bud & Marilyn’s is that I always want to be drunk before I go. There are reasons. This isn’t me confessing to […]
The Revisit: Vernick Food + Drink
Every restaurant has an inaugural “regular,” and for Vernick, it was me. At least that’s what chef Greg Vernick divulged, with a chuckle, when I […]
Hipsters and Grandpas: Triangle Tavern Reviewed
There’s only so much you can tell about a restaurant from its staff’s sartorial choices. But Triangle Tavern’s bar — whose bulbous edge gleams darkly with […]
Act Two: Parlor Reviewed
Confession of a city critic: Whenever I have to schlep out to the suburbs, I can’t help but grit my teeth. Expectations drop beyond the […]
Restaurant Review: Vesper
Two men walk into a bar. “May we go downstairs?” one asks, gesturing toward a bookcase that conceals a secret stairwell. “Do you have the password?” […]
Of Vinyl, Ramps and Stinging Nettle: Helm Reviewed
You knew this was coming. In Philadelphia, where chefs are constantly popping up in one another’s kitchens or dueling each other at Cook, it was […]
Fast Fish: Buena Onda Reviewed
Strange things are afoot in Fast Food Nation. McDonald’s, whose 2013 Mighty Wings promotion left the chain sitting on 10 million pounds of unsold chicken, is […]
Retro Week: Revisiting Ralph’s
At Ralph’s Italian Restaurant, where a century’s worth of footsteps have buffed the dining room’s floor mosaic as smooth as the inside of an oyster […]
Where We’re Eating: Three Retro Restaurants Reimagined
Franky Bradley’s 1320 Chancellor Street Midtown Village 215-735-0735
Bright Lights, Big City: Palladino’s Reviewed
With all due consideration for sore thumbs and Kim Kardashian’s badonka-donk, nothing sticks out from its surroundings quite like Palladino’s on Passyunk. The Italian chophouse rears […]
The Revisit: Fond
Every cook loves getting a bigger kitchen, and Lee Styer is no exception. Two-and-a-half years after moving Fond half a block from its original niche […]
Molto Molto: Gran Caffè L’Aquila Reviewed
Pretend you’ve been led into a new restaurant wearing a blindfold. We’re playing a game: When I uncover your eyes, you try to piece together […]
The Electric Dim Sum Acid Test: Bing Bing Dim Sum Reviewed
If restaurateurs were rock stars (and in Philly, they’re as close as we come), Ben Puchowitz and Shawn Darragh would be vintage R.E.M. Whether they’re slinging ramen […]
Restaurant Review: Lo Spiedo
It was no surprise that the Navy Yard’s Saturday-night gate guard greeted my car with wry amusement. Given all the restaurants in all the neighborhoods […]